Inanda Bass Classic Hints Tips & Facts

Bassmaster Chapter History.

After growing in its popularity and as time went by, the Bassmaster movement started in the USA by Ray Scott its founder member in 1972.  It then progressed to Rhodesia in 1974 where the first African Bassmaster Chapter was formed. Bass have been in S.A since 1930.  And the South Africa Bassmaster movement started in 1981, members and chapters grew in numbers until it reached over 50 chapters in 1995. In its early beginnings the Bassmaster movement was not recognised in South Africa by the then “South African Angling Union”.  This injustice was corrected by S.A.F.A.L.A chaired by Ken Ainslie who also negotiated and brought about the issuing of the first Bassmaster Protea Colors which were presented by the then mayor in Pietermaritzburg Natal. The Bassmaster movement has come a long way in 37 years.     

Bass fishing fact.

If you practice bass fishing often,
And have all the latest best tackle, 
And know all about this elusive creature! 
And still don't catch a bass! 
You're about the same as everybody else……..

The meaning of angling.    

The meaning of angling and the art of fishing as practiced by those who seek to catch fish, not for food or profit, but for sport. The accepted source of the term is an old English word "angul" meaning fish hook but there are several other words which could be likely candidates as well. 

"enka"         unwise expenditure
"unglo”       one tormented by insects
"onku"         frequent lamentation
"angla"        love of pointless suffering !!?

The virtues of a sportsman

He only brags in moderation
He loses well and gracefully
He crows gently when in luck
He shuts up when beaten.

Your attitude

If you think you are beaten….……you are!
If you think you dare not…….……you don't!
If you'd like to win, but think…….you can't!
It’s almost certain……………….……you won't!

Your good spot.

Talk about your bassin success,
discuss how and when you caught your bass,
tell everyone what you caught it on,
brag at what a fight it gave,
exaggerate on its colour and weight
but never tell where you caught him,
then your good spot may remain a good spot !!!
    (Ken Ainslie)

Bass angling success

Successful bass angling is fishing successfully due to a combination of factors,
if you apply these factors well and diligently you should endeavor to swing 
the odds in your favour!  The following tips can help you do this !!!
Study dam or river maps look at contours and drop off’s.
Ensure you are comfortably dressed and able to concentrate on fishing.
Protect yourself against the elements.
Take refreshments as you feel necessary.
Wash your hands and rinse with mud from the dam, to remove all odors.
Use a fish attractant or masking agent on all lures and worms.
Ensure your tackle is clean serviced and prepared.
Ensure your hooks are razor sharp, check this frequently.
Set the reel drag before fishing.
Wet and stretch your line, 
Inspect your line for nicks and damage and change if necessary.
Retie your knots periodically especially after a good fight sequence.
Do not make banging or thumping noises in the boat whilst fishing.
Approach fishing spots with stealth and as quietly as possible.
Do not spook your fish and spot by approaching too closely. 
Study the water and note temperature and color in relation to catches/strikes.
Look for bait fish, holding spots, and cover.
Look for feeding Cormorants & kingfisher's.  They eat baitfish!
Study and read the bank its structures and contours.
Use depth finder to find drop off's, points and cliffs and structures.
Study wind direction in relation to temp.
Locate feeding bass with surface & noisy lures.
Change terminal tackle and tactics until a pattern is found.
If clear water use longer casts less chance to spook your fish.
If clear water keep low profile & minimise any movement.
If clear water use light coloured lures and worms.
If clear water avoid yellow and heavy lines.
Concentrate on your lure or worm and its action.
Vary your retrieve make the lure action attractive.
Stay alert at all times and be ready for that strike opportunity.
Set a strike well and maintain a tight line while playing in the fish.
Land your fish with a net if necessary.
Handle the bass by his lower lip only. Do not touch the body, 
do not allow the bass to touch the boat floor or rub on dry surfaces,
this removes his protective slime. Do not touch his gills or put fingers
in the openings. Respect your bass and return him to the water as soon
as possible to fight another day thank you.      Tight lines.

Join a fishing club

Why not join a bass angling club, where you can learn more about the incredible bass, his habits and learn how and where to fish. Please feel free to pay us a visit with no obligation to join and see if this is where you would like to stay.
Contact the chairman Ken Ainslie of “Major Bass”    Ph = 031-205 3777  work,
for further details.   New members including ladies and juniors are very welcome.   

Sportsmanship – Preservation - Conservation

Fishing and camping check list

to ensure a successful fishing and camping trip, print the list below and hang
it up where you can check it when preparing for your trip.

Bass  fishing  check  list

Day fishing list
Fishing & camping list
1 Skippers licence, boat registration 1 Camp site booked
2 Fishing license 2 Tent,  pegs,  mallet
3 Entry forms   3 Table, chairs
4 Maps cash drivers license 4 Groundsheet
5 Batteries charged 5 Sleeping bag
6 Fish finder 6 Mattress stretcher
7 Temp gauge  barometer 7 Change of clothes
8 Fuel tanks truck and boat full 8 Toilet kit  towel
9 Spare boat oil 9 Mosquito repellant
10 Spare boat fuel 10 Charcoal  matches
11 Spare boat prop and bung 11 Braai grid   tongs
12 Spare sneaker prop 12 Firewood  starters
13 Spare wheels check pressure 13 Gas bottle &light
14 Tyres check pressures 14 Gas bottle  & stove
15 Check trailer wheel brgs 15 Water bottle  full
16 Landing net 16 Spare container
17 Lure retriever 17 Dust bin bags
18 Sneaker  motor 18 Siphon pipe  funnel
19 Tackle boxes, lure, worms 19 Tool kit
20 Fishing rods and reels 20 Torch   eating utensils
21 Fishing scale, side cutters, pliers 21 Ropes  spare
22 Cell phone  charged 22 Battery charger & extension
23 Camera,  gps 23 Double adaptors
24 Polaroid glasses 24 Flasks,  milk,  coke, rusk’s
25 Food and drinks 25 Food, braai  packs,  drinks
26 Sun tan cream 26 Pots, pans, frying pan, utensils,
27 First aid kit, antihistamine 27 Cool box,  ice
28 Raincoat,  boating shoes

29 Hat, cap,  warm jacket

30 Boat safety equipment

31 Life jackets

32 Fire extinguisher

33 Coarse rock salt

Launching your boat.

Holding up a busy slip way whilst preparing your boat for launching will 
anger and annoy other users, prepare your boat for launching before hand
and away from the launch site.  Tasks to carry out before hand are; 

Remove boat covers.
Fit sneaker and connect batteries.
Remove boat to trailer hold downs.
Fit drain plugs if fitted.
Prepare main motor for lowering and starting.
Trim or raise your motor fully.
Load the boat with your fishing gear food and water and other personal items. 
Do not remove your final boat to trailer connection front eye cable or pin
until you are ready to release your boat don’t forget to hold on to your
bow rope to pull your boat in after its launched.
This rope is called =   a painter rope.
Now that you are fully ready to launch, you now may approach the slip way.


New boat owners please practice reversing with your trailer before you go
for the final launch do this on a open piece of ground until you are proficient.
Practicing on the slip way when it’s busy is a definite no no.

Tightening trailer hold downs.

After trailering ones boat. Tighten the hold downs until no slack remains, do not tighten any further as this will put unnecessary load on all boat rollers and 
supports and possibly crack your boat hull. The hold downs are only to stop your boat bouncing on the trailer and should not be over tightened.  To prevent the hold downs from coming loose stretch a bunji cord between the two hold downs.

Trailer tyres

Trailer and vehicle tyres are so very important, check yours regularly!  Under
inflated tyres flex rapidly whilst traveling thus creating heat, the heat results
in high pressure build up and could cause a blow out. Correctly inflated tyres run cooler and safer!  Check pressures often and always before the tyre heats up, avoid interfering with your pressures when tyres are very hot unless you have a problem.  Remember correctly inflated tyres will result in a better economy and last a lot longer as well.

Wheel bearings.

Your trailer bearings are one of the most important a boat owner has to check. Yet in most cases it gets the least attention. Bearings should be checked often, a quick check can save you a lot of money and unnecessary headaches. Jacking up one wheel at a time and rocking the wheel from side to side.  If this play or movement is excessive it could indicate wheel bearing wear or just a need to readjust, but be assured it should be corrected immediately.  Keeping water out of your bearings is another problem, after traveling for sometimes hours wheel bearing hubs tend to warm up and plunging them into cold water when launching cools the hubs quickly creating a vacuum which can and does suck in water which in turn pollutes and damages the wheel bearing grease. This spells early bearing failure and costly replacement. The answer is to check bearings often it’s cheaper!  To check for water in your bearings jack up one wheel remove the bearing dust cap and carefully inspect the inside cap and bearing area for water droplets and poss white looking grease, look at the grease for contamination and if in doubt wash and repack bearings with any good
quality water resistant grease, if you have brakes on your trailer then a high 
melting point grease must be used.  Always fit new seals and when fitting them turn them around and fit them  backwards, this makes them more efficient in keeping the water out, reassemble, do not over tighten the bearings adjust until no free play is felt and then lock the hub nuts with a  new split pin. Replace the dust cap using a sealing agent around the edge to stop water penetration do not fill the dust cap with grease leave this empty, this is a reservoir and escape area for any excessive grease you may have used when repacking.

Boat drain plugs

Boat drain plugs are on most boat hulls and are there to drain water from the hull that might have entered from rain, spillage, or even a slight boat hull crack.  Some plugs are to drain water from the live well.  There is not a boater who hasn’t forgotten to replace his plugs at some time and nearly sunk his boat. To ensure never forgetting to replace your drain plugs follow this simple practice;  clip or tie the plugs to your steering wheel, hold downs or key ring, you cant possibly not see them there and it would be impossible to ignore them on launching. 

Boat wake.

All  boat  owners  should  be  aware  of  the  resulting  wake  of  their  boats.
This wake effect left behind all boats, has an annoying effect on other stationary fisherman whether they are on the bank or on other boats. Everyone should practice a little courtesy when gunning their motor away from other fishermen, or when passing by.
Remember you are responsible for your boat wake!!

Motor size on boats.

Over-powering on boats may cause severe instability on your boat.  Do not install an outboard motor with more horsepower than the maximum rating on the capacity plate on the boat. If the boat does not have a capacity plate, consult the boat manufacturer.

Motor mounting height.

To run your boat at optimum efficiency, the water resistance (drag) of the boat
and outboard motor must be made as little as possible. The mounting height of 
the outboard motor greatly affects the water resistance. If the mounting height
is too high, cavitation tends to occur, thus reducing the propulsion and causing
the engine to overheat.  If the mounting height is too low, the water resistance will increase and thereby reduce engine efficiency. Normally motors are mounted with the cavitation plate level with the bottom of the boat. For less drag mount the engine so the anti- cavitation plate is about 130mm (5 ins) above the bottom of the boat. A high a mounting of the engine will decrease the boats turning stability but will have less drag in the straight ahead position. The optimum mounting height of the outboard motor is affected by the boat/motor combination. Test runs at different heights can help determine the optimum mounting height. To determine the exact mounting height of your outboard motor and further details consult your motor dealer or the boat manufacturer.

Running the motor out of water.

Starting the outboard motor whilst out of water is very risky indeed, the dry 
impellor which is the engines water pump is made out of rubber and spins at high speed in a polished housing. This dry running could lead to the rubber picking up on the polished surface, causing early failure of this vital unit and should be avoided at all costs. When immersed in water the impellor is lubricated with water and functions normally (note)  the impellor and pump is  below water level when the boat is in the water and the leg in the normal running position.

Should you have to run the motor out of the water use bunny ears which feeds 
water into the impellor intake and this allows lubrication to the impellor and
coolant to the motor.

Trimming outboard motor.

The trim angle of the outboard motor helps determine the position of the bow of the boat in the water. The correct trim angle will help improve performance and fuel economy while reducing strain on the engine. The correct trim angle depends on the combination of boat, engine, and propeller. Correct trim is also affected by variables such as the load in the boat water conditions and running speed. Excessive trim up or down can cause instability and make the boat unstable and can make steering more difficult, this increases the possibility of an accident. If the boat begins to feel unstable or is hard to steer, slow down and/or readjust the trim angle.

Trim tab.

The trim tab sometimes doubles as a corrosion anode, this is adjustable tail fin 
mounted just above the propeller on the engine leg. Should the steering pull to one side whilst on the plane, this can be counteracted by adjusting this trim fin 
in gear. A good idea is to leave your main motor in gear whilst fishing. This stops the propeller from turning whilst moving your boat under sneaker power. And will not wind in your line should it unfortunately come into contact with your propeller whilst fighting that bass.

Sneaker care.

Remove and check behind the propeller at intervals for old line weed etc. These can contribute to early failure of the seal that keeps the water out of the motor.  Check your sneaker motor for leaks periodically, do this by turning it upside down and making sure no water appears running out of the head. If water does appear to be coming out of the head then the seal has been compromised take action immediately. Any delay in doing this causes expensive repairs instead of routine seal replacement. If you are attempting to do the repair yourself remove the seal behind the propeller and shake out as much of the water as possible, if you can get access to a compressor blow into the motor to dry and remove the remaining moisture, a vacuum cleaner can also assist in this regard, 
leave motor open and in the sub to dry even further, when satisfied the motor is dry a new seal obtained at any bearing and seal agent may be fitted.

Bass information and facts!

Bass do not really stop growing.
Bass memory lasts about an hour.
A bass does not chew its food.
A bass is aged by using its scales like a tree it has growth rings.
A bass has a blind spot directly above and behind its head.
Bass find their food using sight sound and smell.
A bass weighing 4.54kg takes approx 9 - 10 years to get to this size.
A 4kg bass can lose up to 100 grams in your live well within one hour after being caught.
The lateral line allows the bass to sense vibrations and acts like an ear.
Bass feed both at night and during the day.
Bass prefer shaded dark or dingy waters to bright light.
Bass prefer to chase prey with short bursts of speed.
A female bass has an elliptical anal orifice.
A male bass tends to have a round anal orifice
the air bladder function is to give balance equilibrium, and buoyancy.
The slime on a bass protects it against infection & bacteria.
Pyloric caeca are part of the digestive system in the bass stomach.
A bass anvil is found at back of the mouth to hold and crush prey and food.
The gills function is to extract oxygen from the water & excretes nitrogenous waste.
A female bass reaches sexual maturity at approx 250-300 grams.
A male may entice several females to contribute to his nest.
Bass eggs take 2 - 5 days to hatch.
Bass do not feed while carrying out nesting duties.
The male bass guarding the nest does not keep all predators away  -  slow moving snails, dragonfly larvae, aquatic beetles, are all ignored by the bass.
Very large bass do not make better guardians of the nest.
Large bass have desirable genes, strength resistance to disease and cunning.
Male bass fan the eggs in the nest to keep them fresh and free from silt.
From several thousand fingerlings possibly only 10 will reach maturity!
Fingerling bass feed upon water small parasites, (zooplankton) (rotifers) etc
Florida bass spawn earlier than northern, the advantages are getting preferred 
spawning sites, the first fry get preference on available food chain and predate on later hatching fry. Small mouth & spotted bass seem to favor dirty water more than the other species factors determining the depth and site which bass will spawn are water clarity: gravel bed quality: and cover.
 (Ken Ainslie)

How to handle your bass.
The way you handle and treat your bass reflects your know how and bass experience. Handling your bass correctly is very important, apart from other anglers.  There could be new anglers watching and I’m certain you would not like to influence new or young bassers incorrectly!!  Bass in most of our dams are not as plentiful as we would like and until through our combined efforts with the relevant authorities they do become so let us do everything we can to look after our bass and keep them healthy.  There is a lot we can do to help make this happen...please do not copy our American TV anglers who show very little respect for their bass, landing fish on their boat decks picking them up by any part of the body holding bass horizontally by the lip and throwing them back into the water.  
Lets do it right and respect this awesome fish. Firstly when hooking your bass, land him as soon as possible. Any lengthy long drawn out fight only increases shock and lactic acid build up, which could result in death for the bass. After netting or lipping your fish lift him up by the only accepted method.  Which is -holding the bass by the bottom lip with your thumb in the mouth and the forefinger curled under the chin. 
This also serves to immobilise the bass while the hook is being removed. A heavy fish may be supported under the tail section with your remaining wet hand do not touch or handle the body.  Always carry a pair of pointed pliers close at hand ready to help remove those difficult hooks.  Where a hook is imbedded in the throat, body, near the gills or the eye, if you have little or no experience at this, rather cut the line at the hook leaving the hook imbedded. The bass has chemicals and acids with the water that will soon dissolve the hook, doing less damage than a forced removal. Never touch the bass eyes gills or body its organs are very sensitive and are damaged very easily. Fingers inserted into the gills usually spell death to the bass.  A dry hand on the body of a bass will remove the protective slime, as will letting him bump into the objects in the boat or allowing him to jump around on the boat carpet. The removal of this slime exposes him to injury or infection.  Should a caught bass be  found to be  damaged or  wounded you can very successfully treat the wound or site by dabbing or spraying pure acriflavine,  a common easily obtained medication from your chemist) on the site.   Also good for use on any wounds or stings you yourself may encounter. Lactic acid and shock are both produced when a bass is caught and can kill the fish. This can be minimised by efficient handling and careful treatment.  The best way to do this is to land the bass quickly, weigh him and return him to the water as soon as possible, gently holding him by the lower lip method if it is a heavy bass a wet hand supporting the body may be used. Gently releasing him.  Shock and lactic acid in the system act on the bass like a cramp severely affecting and impairing the respiratory system, heart muscle, and all muscles in general, which can and often kills the bass even several days later. If a bass is bleeding after being caught it may still survive if released, contrary to popular belief. If the bass is put in the live well for a short duration, with coarse rock salt, this will help its survival.

Bass condition factor.

This important method of determining a condition factor of a fish is done as follows. Carefully measure the fish length in mm from closed mouth tip to furthest edge of tail fin. Carefully weigh the fish in grams and apply the following formula.
Formula       "k" = wt in grams x 10,000000
                                 length in mm, cubed

As a guide for comparison the following figures represent an average standard bass.
Bass = 300mm = "k" = 150
            400mm = "k" = 180
            500mm = "k" = 210

Bass types

Four types of bass and their scientific names:

Northern Bass        ( Micropterus  Salmoides. )
Florida Bass           ( Micropterus  Salmoides Floridanus.)
Spotted Bass          ( Micropterus  Punctulatus.)
Small Mouth Bass  ( Micropterus  Dolomi

Female bass are known as = sows,
Male bass are known   as = bucks

Bass senses.

Bass have 5 known senses        
1/  sight,  
2/  smell
3/  sound
4/  taste
5/  lateral line
6th sense. Somewhere between vibration and hearing, the two mechanisms that bass have for the detection of sound are: the inner ear (high frequencies) and the lateral line (low frequencies).

Bass memory is very short and believed to be possibly 30 to 60 minutes.

Bass temp comfort zones.

The ideal temp comfort zone for bass is 65 of to 75 of or 72 deg f
water ph and oxygen play a large part in a bass comfort zone.

Bass fins

caudal        tail fin
pectoral      side fins
anal            behind anus underneath single fin
dorsal         on back front fin spiny portion rear section soft spines
pelvic          two fins underneath on chest 

Enemies of bass.

When bass are small nearly everything is an enemy, dragonfly  larvae,     platana’s, kingfishers, turtles, other fish, other bass  water scorpions, crabs. Larger bass enemies are humans, fish eagles, cormorants, darters, otters,   crocs.

Bass preferences.

bass prefer    =      72 degrees Fahrenheit  ideal  temp
bass prefer    =      ph tolerance of 7 
bass prefer    =      to ambush their prey built for short bursts, 
bass prefer    =      shade or dark conditions    do not like bright sunlight
bass prefer    =      structure and cover 
bass prefer    =      ambush points
            e.g. points    gully's    brush piles    points   
            any structure    good food supply    close access to deep
                                     water with good oxygen and good  ph  7    

Bass dislikes : 

Bright light, loud sharp noises, strong odors (citrus) 

Bass food

When small = rotifers   zooplankton.  Microscopic animal life.
When larger = birds, frogs, lizards, snakes, snails, worms, insects, small fish, larvae, crabs, shrimp, 

Releasing bass.

Bass should be released as soon as possible bearing in mind they cannot breathe out of water and this places enormous stress on the fish.  Releasing them or placing them in the live well as soon as possible is a must. Releasing them gently into the water places less stress on the fish as apposed to throwing them back all sportsmen should show this respect to their quarry. 

Bass nesting and breeding.

Bass traditionally breed once a year but twice a year is not unknown. This event takes place at the onset of spring and the warming of the winter waters,
a male bass will site and build his nest preferably in shallow water  1.5 - 2.5m
and if possible on a clean gravel bed. In turn receiving injuries to his lower lip
and tail fin whilst building the nest. Several females can contribute their eggs to
this nest by laying up to 20,000 eggs which he fans keeping the eggs clean and
free from silt and keeping all would be predators away. After several days the
eggs hatch and the small fry hover in and above the nest in a cloud. The male bass does not feed during this nesting period, but after hatching the fasting starts to wear off and the fingerlings take refuge before they became prey to the hungry parent.  It’s a known fact that younger males make better guardians of the nest as apposed to their older counterparts. 

Bass mortality.

Bass from the time they hatch into fry and mature into adults, are constantly 
threatened and eaten by a host of predators  from a nest of up to 20,000 eggs
it is believed that only several bass will reach and survive to maturity. This only serves to prove how important it is to practice catch and release.
It is important to know that if a male bass is taken off a nest that he is guarding 
and taken to a weigh site, his nest of eggs or fry will be decimated by waiting 
predators in a matter of minutes. Clubs and anglers are well advised not to fish
or have competitions during the breeding season. 
If immediate catch and release is practiced as is done by the major bass association this will allow males guarding nests to return to their duties.

Bass ageing

A bass rate of growth is determined by its habitat and food availability. And 
does not stop growing. 
Its age can be determined by reading the rings on the scales much like a tree.
And by its general size

            0 - 500 grams = first year
            500 - 800 grams    = second year
            800 - 1.300 grams = third year.

Bass sexing.

This is done by examining the shape of the anus.
    Semi round = male
    Elliptical = female

Bass sleeping. 

Bass do not sleep as we know it!  They do not have eye lids but do seem to have periods of little or no movement almost like a suspended state where they are not aware of outside activities it is this period which  is thought to be a 
bass at rest (sleep)

Bass smell sense. 

One of the known bass senses is to be able to smell as anglers we know it is
important to wash our hands before touching our terminal tackle.  I for one
do not like anyone to touch my plastic baits in fear of them polluting them with
some unknown smell. All humans have a natural odor which to most animals and fish is obnoxious, this odor has been identified in the USA and is referred to as “l serine” and can be rated as to its strength in different anglers a sterilised
swab after rubbing on the anglers body is sealed and sent to the laboratory 
for examination and rating, the angler in question will now be aware of his 
obnoxious rating to fish.  We might not have this facility here in SA  but we can be aware of this odor and make every effort to minimise it, after handling batteries oil, petrol, food  citrus etc wash your hands with plain soap (no scent)  available at most chemists, and then wash your hands with mud from the edge of the dam.
Don’t let people handle your plastic worms. Don’t take a chance with those
odors. Using a fish attractant or spray will help mask any scents or odors

Bass de – gassing.

It is recommended this procedure is carried out by professionals and experienced anglers. And not by inexperienced anglers until they have been taught. A bass caught in deep water it is not afforded the time to adjust its air bladder and displays the following symptoms, not being able to swim in a upright position, bulging eyes, and sometimes a swollen stomach this condition if not corrected as soon as possible will stress the fish and can soon lead to its death. The de-gassing procedure should be carried out over the side of the boat whilst still in the water.
A hypodermic needle of suitable size is inserted into the air bladder, this insertion must be in the exact correct position or a fatal injury to the fish could result. 
Excess air in the air bladder is allowed to escape; this can be seen by a steady stream of air bubbles exiting through the protruding needle. When this air stream slows and stops the needle is withdrawn and hopefully the fish has been treated in time to allow its successful release. Note a bass caught in deep water and suffering air bladder problems, if they are released immediately and dropped into the water head pointing down they often can make their way back down into deeper water where they will survive without de-gassing.

Chemicals used for treating bass.

Coarse rock salt

Coarse rock salt is used in the live well at a dosage of 1 tablespoon full per live well approx 20-40 liters (remember to replenish periodically if a circularized system is in use. Do not use ordinary table salt this has iodine in it. The coarse rock salt will help minimise the shock and lactic acid build up in a bass after he has been caught, this will ensure a livelier and stronger fish to release. It also has a mild anti bacterial effect.


Is an anti bacteria treatment a cheap easily available chemical at any pharmacy may be applied neat to the external surfaces with a brush or swab of cotton wool to the injury or body sore. Dosage 2 drops per 5 liters of water in the live well will treat any fungus or disease on the bass. 


A chemical for the destruction of organisms that cause fin rot, ulcers, white spot, and other harmful bacteria, dosage 2 drops per 5 liters


"Mixam" used for parasites and fungus contains coarse rock salt (not iodised!)


Is an anti bacteria treatment and comes in a aerosol spray form 90 gram. Sprayed directly on to injuries and sores it will have an immediate effect. Available from (fisher vet supplies).

Malachite green.

Is an anti fungus and parasite dye and provides immediate results, bass should not be left in this mixture for more than a moment as it is toxic to them, immerse bass holding by the lip and remove immediately. (Use cautiously) make sure above chemical is marked zinc-free. Zinc is toxic to bass.

Methyline blue.

Is a dye that has capabilities of drawing oxygen into the water and increases the
oxygen carrying capabilities in the bass blood stream. It also fights fungus and 
bacteria and when used with acriflavine spurs the production of slime.

Tetracycline hydrochloride.

Is an antibiotic and when used in a bass revival tank in the correct dosages will 
act as an internal antibiotic.


Is a dye mixture and when mixed in the correct proportions in the bass treatment tank it is an excellent anti fungal and anti bacterial dip, caution must be exercised on the duration of time the bass is left in the tank.

Potassium permanganate.

A readily available crystal when mixed in water to make a purple dye is anti-biotic and anti-fungal. Bass must only be immersed in this solution for a few seconds as this is toxic. (Immerse bass in a landing net then remove) live well dosage obviously treatment of fish in a live well that has a circularised system must be taken into account. Assuming a complete change of water takes place further dosage must be made to the live well to have any meaningful effect on the bass.

Please note all the above chemicals are obtainable from vetinary chemical suppliers or pet shops, some of them even from ordinary chemists. They are non toxic and can be used quite safely on the bass if used as instructed.

Claiming a bass record in Natal.

(For natal records) in the interest of returning our large fish to our waters the
bass need not be killed.  Several good photos.  Witness affidavits and proof of scale accuracy will normally succeed in obtaining a record. See below for details. 
Should a records claim satisfy the records officer and be ratified, a certificate
and record badge will be presented at the natal bass federation A.G.M dinner.
Application forms available from the natal record officer (ken Ainslie ph – 031-3010404).

Applications must be on the original document and not faxed or emailed to the records officer. To qualify for a natal record qualifying bass must be caught in the natal province all claims must be lodged with the records officer within one calendar month of capture the claim must be lodged with a R50.00   
records claiming fee.

Application forms must be submitted fully completed and accompanied with 3 clear photographs taken from different angles.  
The application form must be accompanied by:

A/ A signed affidavit from the owner of the assized scale stating the bass weight.
B/ A signed statement by any witnesses with phone and address.

At any time, should any details submitted be found to be incorrect or fraudulently submitted the record will be struck from the records list, certificates badges will be recovered. And all details will be submitted for publication.

(Please note) for South African,  world  or  I.G.F.A  records,  the bass must be killed and stored in a deep freeze until all records are fully ratified,  all above procedures must be strictly adhered to. Do nothing to spoil your chances of a claim. If in any doubt please contact your natal records officer for advice. Remember speed in carrying out the weighing of the fish is important as it loses weight rapidly after capture.

(Please note) details of all large bass over 3 kg should be submitted in writing to the records officer for the natal “large bass listings”.  Photographs are welcome but not necessary; these submissions are for natal large bass lists only. Details of all bass caught any time in the past are welcomed. Please state = when where what and weight anglers details etc any witnesses if any their phone numbers, angler to supply all details. Id numbers and phone numbers and sign.

Dedicated to the conservation and preservation of bass.

Coarse rock salt.

The use of coarse rock salt  in a live well is an absolute must, this will go a long way to helping the bass survive by acting as a tranquiliser, just as a  saline drip does for humans, being treated for shock it also acts as a chemical to minimise and reduce shock and lactic acid in all caught fish. Do not use anodized or table salt, these have iodine in them and are poisonous to fish, the salt is absorbed through the gills as the fish breathes and this in turn reduces shock and lactic acid. 4-6 tablespoonfuls of coarse rock  salt in a normal sized live well of 30-40 liters is sufficient, as time passes and the live well water is replaced by the aerator pump, the salt must be replenished. The correct coarse rock salt is available from most pet shops, remember to make sure it’s not iodated.  Two drops of myxazin anti bacterial liquid available from pet shops added to the live well will kill all parasites and bacteria. A live well correctly built and installed is a very good and effective way to preserve your catch until they may be weighed and released. 

Battery care.

The single most important piece of boating equipment is the battery. When this fails and generally it does due to age or poor maintenance a fishing trip can be almost a total loss! To avoid this follow these steps. Keep the battery clean especially the terminals (posts) wipe them and the terminals with Vaseline or grease. Make sure all terminals are secure. Disconnect the battery if not in use this will minimise any loss due to slight leakage in the system which normally occurs.  Charge the battery as soon as possible after use, until the specific gravity is correct, this can be checked with a hydrometer which is a cheap investment. A battery left in a discharged state soon sulphates and this spells the end for the unit. Keep the water level just above the separator plates using distilled water. Make sure the holes in the cell caps or tops are free and unobstructed, keep the battery clean and dry or a slow discharge may occur. Keep battery in the boat well secured and do not allow it to bounce about this will result in a case crack and acid in the boat or hull can do untold damage. Trickle charge a battery in storage at least every four weeks or the life of the battery will certainly be shortened. The latest deep cycle batteries are sealed and do not need topping up they also require a special charger for charging. If one follows these simple caring procedures a battery will last for the maximum period designed for and many successful fishing trips.

Boating - rules of the road.

Broadly speaking vessels keep to the right (starboard), and also give way to the right (starboard).
Vessels traveling in narrow water ways and rivers must keep to the right (starboard).
Vessels approaching head on each alter course to the right (starboard) vessels overtaking must do so on the safest side and keep well clear until well ahead.    If a collision is imminent each vessel must take whatever action is necessary to avert this even if it means a departure from the normal rules.
A handy way to remember (starboard and port) is to remember that right is a longer word than left and starboard is a longer word than port; the two longer words have the same meaning. 

                            (Starboard right) and (Port left)
              The following illustration holds good in every situation
                                     study it carefully.

                 (left)                                               (right)
                 port                                           starboard
              vessels in                x                   you give way
              this arc                  xx                  to vessels in 
              give way               xxx                 this arc 
              to you                  xxxx

                                    vessels in this
                                    arc keep clear
                                         of you
                            e.g. overtaking vessels.

Live well construction.

After all the trouble you the angler has gone to catch this wonderful sporting fish. It would be a great shame to lose your hard earned points and possible prizes through a badly constructed and managed live well. Correct live well construction is of paramount importance and many fall far short of this important requirement, the sides and lid need to be lined on the outside with polystyrene to minimise heat radiation from outside and the suns rays on the hatch cover, it must be sufficient in size to keep your boat catch for you and your partner comfortable. A sufficiently large hatch cover to facilitate easy access especially to remove your catch and to clean the interior.  Water circulation is good but water replacement is more important this is to remove the faeces urea and regurgitated matter which  collects in the interior, drainage should take place from the bottom of the live well and replacement water be fed through an aerator on the top edge, top edges of the live well should be fitted with water deflection lips which in rough conditions deflect splashing water back into the well. Suitable bilge pumps to fill and drain the live well these can be fitted with timers to activate the pumps periodically.


Your  bailing bucket in the live well gives the bass a place to hide their heads? And offers comfort and shelter to the bass, reducing stress..  Try it..!

Live well water capacity

To calculate your live well capacity measure the length and breadth of your live well and the depth of water when live well is full. (All in feet) multiply these three dimensions together then multiply by 7.5 the result will be in gallons multiply by 4.5 to get liters. Deciding on the size of your live well is difficult and dependant on a number of factors: - 
the amount of water to be held,
the number of fish to be kep,
the size of the fish to be kept,
how efficient your water circulation and replacement is water and outside temperature’s. 

Keep your live well water cool

If your water temp reaches 75 degrees f or higher introduce ice gradually to cool the water by several degrees. Do not cool excessively as this will create more stress and shock than the hot water.

Live well circulation

Water in the live well if circulated only is being aerated but being trapped is rapidly being contaminated with bass excretions e.g. - urea, regurgitations, faeces, etc. The water also heats up over a period of time; warmer water adds further shock also holding less oxygen than cooler water. Therefore water
being freshly pumped in & out is not only cooler and fresher it is also full of oxygen.  Conducive to the welfare of your bass during hot weather, ice added to keep the water cool is acceptable.  Endeavor to keep the temp as close to 72 degrees f, or slightly cooler which is ideal for bass. Pulling spawning bass off nests in spawning season (approx September – January) causes problems, anglers would do well to remember that if a bass is pulled off a nest, weighed & released immediately, it would in all likely hood return to its nest and carry on its parental duties if not bothered any further. A nesting bass can be easily
identified by the tell tale red raw chin and tail fin (caudal), but on the other hand if it is carted half way round the dam to weigh stations before being released, it will not return to its nest and the angler has effectively killed thousands of potential future bass. (That’s some thought!) Poorly constructed live wells will stress and shock the bass this can manifest itself long afterwards. For example a bass which is seriously stressed damaged or exhausted can and often will die several days later resting at the bottom refusing to feed eventually dying and being eaten by barbell eel and other predators.  Remember your efforts at handling your bass correctly will help further our bass population and its survival in our dams. (Note) because bass generally have a clean digestive tract they seldom float on dying. 

Live wells

Live wells are of such importance and yet they are generally overlooked by many boat manufacturers or builders. Often they are small and inadequate. The sitting or placing of the live well or wells is important as this will affect the boat handling and performance. The size must be adequate to hold at least 5 bass per angler and adequate water to sustain the fish for the duration of captivity. The surface finish of the live well should be smooth and well finished to facilitate easy cleaning and minimise any damage to the bass. An anti splash lip should be fitted to minimise any splash redirecting any splashing water  back into the well. The live well opening should be adequate not only to allow fish to be put in to the well, but to remove the bass easily and allow cleaning. Aerator’s  are  of importance to aerate and replenish the oxygen in the live well, it also helps lower the water temperature as the water evaporates. But more important is a bilge or water pump which pumps fresh water into the live well  brings in  much needed fresh cool water which is already oxygenated and if directed through a spray race  will further cool the water and add further oxygen.  
Drain pipes must take the water from the bottom of the live well taking with it all the faeces, regurgitated debris and urea which generally sinks to the bottom. This system should remain functioning all the time the live well is occupied.
Insulation is very important as heat is radiated  from the hot boat deck and 
surrounding areas in the open boat  is  absorbed into the live well water raising the temp stressing the bass unnecessarily  polystyrene sheeting  installed around  the live well does an excellent job of minimising this heat transfer. The lid should also be insulated from the direct suns rays. Bearing in mind the bass is often caught in deeper water where the water temperature is cooler and the live well water is obtained from the surface water which is a lot warmer, this often spells stress shock and even early death if not dealt with immediately. A bass has an  ideal comfort temp of 72 of or 19 oc a little ice or cooler blocks in the live well to lower temp is preferable as the resulting stress of adding ice is lower than the stress resulting from high water temperatures. It’s a pity we can’t collect cooler live well water from lower depths in hot weather. Try using a length of pipe to bring this cooler water in to the live well catch and release pills or oxygen pills are of benefit to the bass and if available should be used as directed whenever possible.

Bass feeding frenzy

When your partner hooks into a bass, immediately place your lure or worm behind the bass being caught. So often the bass that hits the lure excites and causes other nearby bass to go on a feeding spree, and this could work in your favor, good luck.

Over striking

We know setting the hook is important, but sometimes a hook set is lost due to over striking a firm strike and a steady pressure  is just as good. Striking too hard can sometimes pull the hook right out of the fish’s mouth.

Selecting the correct rod

Choosing the correct rod requires just as much thought  as getting your terminal tackle to the right spot is. So getting the correct rod for the job comes high on ones priority list. Each type of bass fishing requires a different rod  and no one rod will do all the tasks expected of it, just like a golfer has a club for each stroke fishermen need a rod for each type of cast.  A suggestion - 
4 ½ foot rod medium action for spinning and small lures
6 ½ foot rod heavy action for worms and crank baits 
7 foot rod for flipping and pitching and longer casts and when using heavy lures.
A rod with a flex soft end section will make casting light tackle a lot easier and not tend to jerk the hook out of the fish’s mouth. A stiff rod will allow more fighting strength but will restrict your casting. Rods with more eyes along its length will give evenly distributed support; rods with a long butt section allow more leverage on striking. For worming one needs to feel every twitch and movement some rods allow you to touch the rod blank at the trigger section and this helps with your ability to feel that minute pick up.

Rods for spinning reels

When using a spinning reel (coffee grinder) the rod must have a large first eye to assist the line rotating movement through the rod and make casting easier.

Rod eye check

Periodically run a nylon stocking through the eyes of your fishing rods. This is the best way to detect damaged or cracked ceramic inserts, the stocking snags on any rough protrusion. This can shave and damage your line,

Rod lure hook

Most new rods have a special eye placed in front of the reel seat to hook your terminal tackle to if yours does not!  Make one from a small plastic tie strap and a split ring. Works very well and neat too.

Improved triple hooks

Bought lures often have a small narrow gape triple hook on them, a suggestion is to change them for a bigger wider gape one.  To improve your triple hook on your lures, a mustad hook number qual. 35647 size no 4 for larger lures, this hook has a wider gape that is - from centre to outer point distance. This gives a better chance to hook your bass.

Fluorescent lines

Fluorescent lines are really great for watching your line as the line sinks a strike or bite can easily be seen as the line twitches, some anglers fear the line is visible to the fish if this bothers you, run a marker pen on your line for the first meter or so, or tie on a short leader with a less conspicuous line.

Line twist

To stop line twist when worming attach a small sampo swivel to your hook eye with a split ring this puts a stop to the problem very well.

Line care

Monofilament fishing lines should be given every care, kept clean dry and wound on to the spool under a moderate tension (not tight) twisted line is considerably weaker to avoid this allow the line to run freely behind the boat whilst traveling slowly, until the line is straight, a line absorbs water and in an ideal working situation should be wet and stretched slightly to get the best out of it. When not in use it should be stored in a cool dry and dark place. Line should not be left in the car or in the boot where it can get very hot.  Failure to look after your line will weaken it and let you down when you can least afford it! Neglecting fishing line will cause it to prematurely harden and leave a curl in your line (memory) spoiling it. To get the best out of your line turn it around on the spool allowing the unused back portion to be used getting more use out of your line.  Remember the best of knots no matter how well tied can reduce your line strength by 50%.

Line class and definitions

When claiming fresh water records, there are three categories fish may be caught in and the line size is the determining factor they are: light, medium, and heavy. 
The light line must be no thicker than = .22 mm (which is approx 6lb breaking strain)
The medium line must be between = .22 mm and .31 mm
The heavy line must be = .31 mm and above.
A 3 m sample of line is required to be sent in with the claim for a national or I.G.F.A. record.


When tightening your knots, wet your line before drawing not up tight against the eye do not pop the knot but draw it up gently and firmly. There are many types of knots but i would suggest perfecting one and use that for all terminal tackle knots. One other knot is useful and that would be one for the joining of two lines. 

Line failure

Most of us curse and blame the line each time we lose a fish or lure due to broken line. I wonder how many of us realise that your line is greatly weakened by: leaving it in the sun for long periods, twisting it by incorrectly spooling on the line, spooling it on to the reel too tightly (especially if it is left after landing a heavy fish! Popping the knot when tying and damaging the line. Not retying your knots periodically,  when casting out a slight over wind  if you experience a slight burn on your thumb  whilst casting the chances are you have damaged the molecular structure of the line and weakened it. If you experience an over wind and in an effort to retrieve your lure you wind over the over wind, and then attempt to cast out the over wind, the buzz of line hitting the bridges of the reel damages the line!  Next time your line breaks carefully inspect the broken end for tell tale signs, if a small curl is at the end this could indicate a knot failure. This is not to say that line breaks easily! It generally puts up with a lot of abuse by the angler and still does a good job. So next time if you experience a line problem consider for a moment could it have been your fault and not the line’s?


Schistosomiasis  known as bilharzia is a deadly water born disease most of us have heard and read about, but know very little about it.  It rates high up there as one of the biggest killers in Africa. And is very widespread here in South Africa.  On entering our body this parasite can attack any and all of our major organs, sometimes lying dormant for years before manifesting itself. Unfortunately it is not always easy to detect and by the time it is detected, it could have done serious damage. A forked tail parasitic worm know as circaria  is produced  in vast numbers by the infected host a water snail,   the parasite only lives only for a few hours and must find a host before it dies,   the parasitic worm invades our body and organs if we drink the contaminated water or by penetration through our skin whilst swimming or wading or coming in contact with the water and can enter very easily through any open wounds. On occasions the penetration of the worm can be felt by an itchy sensation.  After maturing inside our bodies for 3 to 4 weeks the parasite breeds lays eggs which we pass out in our stools and urine and if this is done into water we re infect the snail and the whole cycle starts again. The following  symptoms may be experienced by an infected person  =  dysentery, lethargy, fibrosis, of intestinal or bladder walls or liver, blood in stools or urine, lungs or central nervous system convulsions, passing of blood in urine and stools.  Treatment is by medication and a doctor’s examination should be sought immediately. Bilharzia does not exist high in the mountains the cold waters do not allow the snails to survive, but wherever snail exist so can bilharzia!  The belief that bilharzia doesn't exist in running water is not true, infected water from the infested edges is carried into midstream by currents, fish, boats, and the wind. So be warned you are not safe anywhere. Try and avoid contact with the water as much as possible, and if wet or splashed dry the area immediately,  and most important have a bilharzia test at least once a year.

Thermos flasks

In time a flask builds up with tannin or coffee stains, this influences the flasks 
ability to function efficiently. To clean the inside put in 3 tablespoon’s of jik and top up with warm water leave over night and rinse well in the morning. This works particularly well with stainless steel flasks.

Useful tip

To clean your skottle of those hard crusts and dirty residue after use. Put two tablespoonfuls of baking soda fill with water, and boil for a couple of minutes. This will clean and remove all dirt like magic.


Calculating the man/hrs/bass.   This information if kept as a record, will give very interesting information on that dams productivity as the years go by.  

Scale & tools placement

How many times have you seen anglers frantically looking for their scale after 
landing a fish? Far better if you keep your scale in a designated place so not as to hunt for it at a critical moment, this goes for your pliers landing net and other equipment.


Anglers absorb a lot of the suns rays whilst fishing and from reflective rays off 
the water we know excessive exposure to the sun should be avoided, and whenever possible a good sun block cream should be used, this sun blocking agent reduces the exposure to the U.V. rays which are cancer inducing.  Play it safe and block up with a good sun block before going on the water. Remember to wash your hands after applying sun block.

The suns rays 

UVB light penetration and reflection. The dangerous "UVB" rays penetrate water and at a meter in depth still has 50% of its strength. Contrary to popular believe the facts are ; water only reflects 5% of UVR.  Sand reflects 17% and grasses a whopping 25%. UVR can penetrate cotton fabrics so one can be burnt even while sitting under a umbrella, or through a fishing shirt. Warning use your sun block cream, treat the sun with great respect and keep a careful watch on any skin changes. 90% of skin cancers can be cured if caught in time, watch for any mole changes, red scaly skin patches, and small shiny pearly lumps.

U.V. light and your eyes

Modern science tells us that the ultra violet rays that enter our eyes while outdoors does our eyes untold harm, and wearing of ordinary sunglasses or polaroid’s does us even more harm by making us open and relax our eyes letting even more U.V. light. Consult your optician as to whether your glasses have U.V. protection or not. And if necessary treat your glasses (plastic lenses only) and make them U.V. protective at a small cost. This treatment also considerably toughens the plastic surface.

Polystyrene tip

A small piece of polystyrene stuck on inside of the boat makes an ideal temporary lure holder, holding those lures and stopping them from getting underfoot. 

Clothing tip

Have you considered the clothing you are wearing when fishing?  Bear in mind from the fish's point of view, on a clear day you are silhouetted against the sky line. If you wear dark clothing you make an exceptionally good contrast to the fish and are easily seen, if pale colors or even white are worn you blend with the background and are less visible. When next in a pool from underwater look up at someone on the side and see for yourself.


Your footwear that you wear while fishing is important. If you are standing 
comfortably in the boat you will be able to apply your full concentration to the task at hand and not be distracted by your footwear be careful and make sure you get the maximum support and comfort bearing in mind that you must be able to remove these items in a hurry should you fall into the water? They must also be soft and provide noise free movement especially in the boat; soft good running shoes fit the bill in this regard. Light colors also reflect the suns heat and help keep your feet cool.

Worm  inspection

If using a plastic worm and you think you had a knock or bite,  inspect the surface of the worm for tell tail signs scrapes and scratches made by the bass mouth serrations. If this happens too often bulk down to a smaller or shorter worm this may help.

Making plastic worms

If you are interested in making your own worms, save all your old plastic worms and pieces. Keeping the colours separate, melt carefully in a fondue pot over a candle flame. To make a mold lightly glue a couple of your new favorite worms to the bottom of a plastic sandwich box this is to stop the worms floating. When glue is dry, pour a thin mixture of plaster of paris over the worms until mold is approx  3omm thick. Tap the mold to settle the mixture and remove bubbles. When perfectly dry remove from the mold and gently remove the plastic worms disturbing the mold as little as possible fill the cavities with vegetable cooking oil and allow to soak in and repeat again. Lightly oil the cavities before each pouring in of the liquid plastic, allow to set and remove gently, this mold may be used over and over again.

Worm colours

Worms come in many different colours, it is advisable to keep worms of one colour together and keep them separate from others as their colours may bleed on to other worms.

Worm damage

Often we run out of our favorite worms whilst fishing, and it is useful to know that a drop of super glue does wonders in repairing a torn or damaged worm, dry the worm where torn and apply a small drop of super glue and hold for several seconds. Also applying a drop to the hook eye before pulling the worm into place will hold the worm firmly in place, (really effective!) The super glue does not appear to affect the worm appeal or taste to the bass.

Worm damage 

Damaged worms can be repaired as above and also by heating both surfaces with a lighter and holding the surfaces together for several seconds,  making your own variations using different worm pieces and colours can also be effective.

Fish finder dirty water marks

To clean the glass and remove water marks off your fish finder screen, mix a small amount of vinegar with water and rub gently with a clean soft cloth. 

Worm weight tip

For those who fish texas rigging and want that little edge on standard worm 
weights try melting a little worm plastic with a lighter on to the surface of 
the weight it sticks on well and makes the weight a lot more natural in appearance and feel. Use different colors to enhance your worm, 

Spinner skirts

should you find your spinner blade and jig skirts tangling and sticking. After 
thoroughly drying the skirt try getting a stick of french chalk and with a knife or blade scrape off a powder, work this into the skirts. This will preserve the skirts and will stop rusting to a degree, the chalk has no odor or scent as  it is quite natural. Keep your jigs or spinners in a plastic bank bag. 

Stainless steel hooks

The use of stainless steel hooks is a definite no no.   If these are used and a fish is lost with the hook still imbedded there is no chance of this hook rusting away,  where as the normal steel hook does eventually rust away and the fish has some chance of survival. 

Duo locks

Duo locks are small clips used to connect lures to your line. They are very light and very effective they allow a very quick lure change and also give the nose ring on most lures more freedom making better lure action on retrieve. Caution is needed on winding the clip into the top first eye this  has been known to loosen the clip!

Lure retrievers

These are useful items to retrieve a lure or worm that has snagged on some 
underwater obstacle. A weight connected to a couple of chain links lowered down the line on a strong cord usually works with some manipulation.  A better retriever quite easily constructed is a long plastic tube  made up from electrical pvc tubing one sliding within the other, holes drilled along the length of the pipe allows it to sink.  At the end a wire curl attached to wrap around the line and follow it to the snagged lure.  This unit works very well and doubles as a tree snagged lure retriever as well.

Clutch  reel drag

The reel clutch on all reels should be backed off completely whilst not in use,  
this stops the clutch plates being squashed and in time losing their effectiveness. Doing this will also remind you to set your drag before fishing as you will not be able to wind after casting,  this will avoid those missed strikes when the drag slips because you forgot to set it….

Thermo cline

A thermo cline is the point at where water temp changes from one temp to another and bass can hold to this point. At times fish can be seen on one’s fish finder all sitting at this depth. A worthwhile tactic could be to fish this depth with worm or lures that hold and stay at this depth. Try jigging, measuring ones cast to approx that depth and letting it drop to the holding fish and jigging up and down gently could trigger a strike.


How often have you lost that fish because you were not concentrating?  One of the hardest things to accomplish in fishing is total concentration for the total fishing period.  No one can teach you to remain concentrated, but one can try and improve by ensuring that you are fresh. Having a good night sleep being well fed and comfortable having no distractions.  These will help and the rest will be up to you.

Destination notification

When taking a fishing trip always notify your next of kin or someone where you are going and when you expect to return and supplying them with both cell ph no of you  and your fishing partner. If you fail to return for whatever reason this makes it easier to locate you. Cell phones make this less of a problem today. 

Longevity of litter in our waters

Cotton rags and paper                degrade in 4 weeks
Wooden stakes etc                     degrade in 4 years
Wax paper, cartons and cups      degrade in 5 years
Styrofoam etc                            degrade in 10-20 years
Cigarette filter tips                      degrade in 15 years
Plastic containers                       degrade in 50-70 years
Tin or steel cans                        degrade in 100 years
Aluminium cans (beer cans)        degrade in 100-500 years
Rubber, glass, containers etc       never degrade!

If you are guilty of polluting our waters with any of the above
shame on you…. 

Bassin thumb 

My term, I use this to describe the rough feeling you get on your thumb after a good days fishing. Well done, it shows you handled your bass correctly, may you often have this feeling.

Tight lines... Ken Ainslie

Please don't litter in our water ways, remember you're the solution to water pollution.